But it can be hard to get into Comme des Garçons. There's PLAY, there's the main line, there's Homme Plus, Shirt, Junya Watanabe technically falls under the same umbrella as well... and none of it is marked in obvious terms to someone who is new to it. The purpose of this guide is to simplify this somewhat. Not a deep dive into every sub-line but only that which is important to the person purchasing his first piece.
Lines are not interchangeable
The heart mark that people think of with CDG, the Converse logo and the denim jackets are all from PLAY. This is the cheapest and most readily available one. The main Comme des Garçons line is completely another concept, more conceptual, more expensive and it's not something that you can see at a glance, like you can see PLAY. For first time buyers, when you want a familiar piece, PLAY is virtually always the answer. For something more deconstructed, more runway – it's the main line or Junya option – this is another budget and another learning curve.
The size 8 is not the standard size for a horse
Perhaps the most common mistake first-time buyers of CDs make is assuming that CD size is standard on all lines. PLAY tends to be on or undersize. The main line pieces can be oversized intentionally as many of the silhouettes are based on volume, not fit. Always refer to the size chart for the particular line and particular drop and do not assume that the same size will be the same line and the same drop. For all sizes other than PLAY, go up in size if you fall in between sizes.
The concept of creating a wardrobe from your initial few items
Most begin with PLAY since it is wearable day-to-day fashion, while some main line pieces are not. A PLAY tee or cardigan would be more suitable to wear over regular streetwear basics and that's where a simple rotation would make sense.
If you're getting into a CDG rotation, a stussy shirt is a perfect layering top because of its style and less prominent branding makes it feel like a secondary layer that doesn't steal the show. It is also a relatively inexpensive way to add some fit until you know what pieces of CDG you actually want to invest in.
Where to actually buy it
The authorized retailer is a significant factor with CDG, and something that is definitely not true with many brands; as soon as resale markets for limited collabs become flooded with replicas it's fast. Dover Street Market is the obvious choice as it's associated with the brand but there are also many established multi-brand stores that sell PLAY and main line items as well. Buy collab shoes, such as the Converse or Nike line, through the official channel as opposed to the resale market.
On the distinction between true and false
PLAY heart should be embroidered neatly, even spaces between eyes, even stitches and there should be no loose ends around the edges. A cheap fake will not quite be right on the proportions, it will be a little narrower at the heart or the eyes will be a little farther apart. Look on the clothing for the tag. Frequently, even with good construction, counterfeiters either miss the fonts or miss the printing of the CDG tags. If a price seems too low for the product being sold, chances are that it is.
What to budget for
As with other high-quality streetwear essentials, PLAY tees tend to be in a more convenient zone. The PLAY cardigans, jackets and the Converse collabs are on the expensive side, particularly in less popular shades. Main line pieces from CDG are a whole new ball game compared to street wear pricing, and for the first time, they people don't realize this. Before you go looking, you might want to determine what line you're looking to invest in; the "CDG" span is quite broad and you can get lost in the process.
things to avoid at the beginning
Avoid purchasing your initial piece simply because of the hype that has actually surrounded a specific drop. Before you go for limited collabbers, choose something you will wear frequently, typically a PLAY basic. Do not take a product secondhand on faith, especially if the seller appears confident that it is genuine just because it is a CDG product. Also don't overlook line specific sizing - one of the most frequent mistakes people make after their first purchase is assuming PLAY line and main line sizes the same.
What is the easiest piece of CDG for you to begin with?
A PLAY tee or simple cardigan. To be affordable, recognizable and can be worn with items of clothing that one already has.
Is PLAY similar to Comme des Garçons?
It's a sub-line of the same brand that is very different in style and price from the main line.
How can I determine if a PLAY piece is real or not?
Inspect the embroidery of the heart logo and tag printing. Common pitfalls are inconsistent stitching or fonts that are not "on point".
Is CDG on target?
Depends on the line. PLAY runs are near to actual dimensions. Main line pieces are sometimes deliberately run oversized.
Where is the best place to purchase CDG?
Or to the established multi-brand retailers and Dover Street Market. If you're collaborating with another brand, it's safe to assume the official website is it.
Is the price of CDG justified for the first time?
Generally, yes, for PLAY it's more similar to high-end streetwear. Main line will require more and is a larger commitment that should be tried before being committed to or researched thoroughly.